Wright and Rivers

Today we had the most perfect weather for our drive from Madison to LaCrosse. It was top down all the way as we tooled along two-lane roads that paralleled the Wisconsin and Mississippi Rivers.

By the way, if you've been wondering where all the stimulus road construction money is being spent, rest assured that we have found the answer. Every main thoroughfare in Madison is under construction. I have never seen so much road construction going on in one jurisdiction, which made finding our way out of town a tad grueling.

But within a few minutes we were deep in beautiful dairy country. You'd never know you were just outside Madison -- it immediately changed to a very rural, picturesque scene. It seemed like in minutes we arrived at Spring Green and Taliesin, Frank Lloyd Wright's prairie home and school. Because today was the day the fates were smiling kindly on us, we arrived 10 minutes before the next available tour and were able to sign up for it.

Add this one to your list of places to see. Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable and we learned a lot: about how Wright came to build his school here (family land and the site of a school his maiden aunts had started); that he made more money as a dealer in Asian objects than as an architect; and why he started Taliesin West (health issues). Quite a complex man and quite a beautiful complex. You have to keep reminding yourself (or be reminded by the tour guide) that Wright was creating in his style at the same time that Victorian gingerbread architecture was all the rage. His lines are so modern that it's easy to forget how avant garde his ideas were.

By the time we finished the tour (and some shopping at the very well appointed gift shop) we were delighted that there were picnic tables so conveniently located by the parking lot. We laid out another spread (thanks to some provisioning we had managed to do in Madison) of smoked trout spread (the Wisconsin specialty that rivals Michigan's smoked whitefish pate), humboldt fog cheese, our trusty Ritz crackers, tomatoes, some watermelon, and figs. Oh, and of course a nicely chilled bottle of Australian chardonnay (unoaked). Perfect. I'm eternally grateful to my seatmate when I flew to Denver in June who suggested that I pack picnic supplies. These have been some of our finest meals.

After lunch we followed the Wisconsin River to Prairie du Chien, where we crossed the Mississippi into Iowa (now we can say we've been there), bought gas in Marquette (now we have proof that we were there), and then turned around and drove back to Wisconsin and picked up the Great River Road. Marquette's claim to fame is that it has one of those floating casinos where you have a building on land with a covered walkway leading to a river boat where the casino is.

Back in Wisconsin, we snaked along the Mississippi to La Crosse. The river along this stretch is very wide, with islands breaking it up and bluffs rising up on either side. Perhaps it was the expanse of river combined with perfect weather, the slightly fuzzy feel afternoon brings, and the genial mood we'd had all day. Whatever caused it, both Monica and I felt this tremendous calm and peacefulness that just doesn't convey in pictures.

Here's a photo looking the other way. I just like this one.

Next thing we knew we were in La Crosse and finding a hotel for the night. Here's the view from our window, another look at the Mississippi. (It seems it was a day of dirty windows!)

We met up with Jim and Debbie Nicholson for dinner. They were kind enough to re-route their trip to Michigan in order to connect with us. It was a fun meal of non-stop chatter that must have touched on just about everything. I'm sorry we won't get to see their Minneapolis -- something for our next visit. I think Jim enjoyed having a harem for the evening. Thanks guys! We really appreciate you going out of your way so we could see you!