Memphis Musings

Today seemed to be the day to see famous dead people's relics. And why not? It makes for a theme!

The day began with a long, leisurely morning chez Howorth. That's Bebe, Lisa's youngest, hiding behind the NY Times. Just wanted to show you again how cozy and comfortable it was there. Lisa's lucky I'm so driven or I'd probably still be there sipping yet another vodka and tonic.

Perhaps to ease me out the door (totally kidding), Lisa and I drove over to tour Faulkner's house.

This was his writing room. And below is the actual phone he answered and learned that he had won the Nobel prize. Notice that he scrawled phone numbers on the wall. It's all preserved as it was. This is a popular pastime in these parts, as I continued to learn throughout the day.

The house is wonderfully sited off a bend in the road. Stately cedars shield it in the front and it looks quite grand if slightly heading to seed. I was glad to see it.

I dropped Lisa off at home and headed to Square Books, the renowned bookstore that she and her husband own. I picked up the new Franzen book on David's recommendation and also Faulkner's As I Lay Dying, Lisa's recommendation as the best intro to his writing (since I've never read anything by him). The store has the same charming, cozy, cluttered feel as their home and is filled with signed and will-be-signed-at-the-upcoming-reading editions. The personal connection they seemingly have with every book in the store creates a very special space. I'm looking forward to returning when David does a reading there from his new book (a girl can hope!).

Based on the discussion we'd had the night before, I decided to try out Tullulah's, the restaurant run by Lisa's friend Laurie. And that led to another first -- my introduction to catfish.

There's the dish, complete with hush puppies, slaw, and fries (which I'm delighted to report I didn't eat). A delicious if potentially deadly cardiac event in a handy disposable box. The good news is that I also resisted the deep fried Twinkie and its companion deep fried Oreo. I kid you not. Must be some regional specialty. Laurie's an exceptional cook and her food is prepared with such love and care, so be sure to put that on your list when you head to Oxford.

The drive to Memphis was only about an 1.5 hours. There was nothing new landscape-wise with the exception of some wonderful kudzu sightings.

As David had said, the way it grows it looks like topiary! I remember that from my trip through Mississippi 40 years back.

My great automotive achievement of the last two days is that I've learned how to create a "genius" playlist on my iPhone. I'm delighting in creating different sets for myself. Yes, I know, all the rest of you have known how to do this for ages, but now I do, too!

I charted my course into Memphis to be able to stop first at Graceland. Well, actually, I did a drive by, which the folks at Graceland are very careful to ensure reveals absolutely nothing (although I did catch sight of a couple of Elvis' jets on display). But it did enable me to drive along a very special street.

From there I drove to my hotel (an extremely nice Hyatt well located a block from Beale Street) and settled in. Here's the view from my window.

Pretty nice, huh? I walked across the street and checked out the Rock and Soul Museum.

It presents a thorough history of the Memphis music scene, explaining how the white and black roots of music eventually intertwined in this city to create the blues and give birth to rock and roll. Gives an excellent context to Elvis (and includes the requisite costumes and other paraphernalia). Quite fascinating, although it's a bit disconcerting to see things I remember from my youth (like Wurlitzer juke boxes and 8-track tapes) displayed as relics!

From there I walked past Beale Street over to Rendezvous for their famous ribs.

No picture of dinner -- the ribs weren't especially photogenic, especially in the dark of the bar. These are dry-rubbed and pretty darn good, served with slaw and beans. I have to admit, though, that the dinner at Cochon kind of spoiled me for other pork. Had a nice chat with a fellow who told me he travels on business 4 days a week!!

I walked back along Beale, which is like a miniature Bourbon Street. Things were beginning to crank up for the evening. Lots of music, lots of drinking, but nothing particularly appealing. So instead I came back to plot my next adventures. Tomorrow it's on to Nashville, the last stop on the music tour. I'm keeping half an eye on hurricane Earl and hoping we won't intersect! Looks good so far.